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Battery tips

How-to and maintenance for lithium and lead-acid golf cart batteries.

Bedrock 48V 105Ah lithium golf cart conversion kit

Voltage sags on hills

Resting voltage can be fine. The hill is the load test you already drive every day. Match the cart by make, model, year, and voltage before you order.

Lights dim and the horn dies

On a lead cart, dim lights often mean the two batteries that feed the 12-volt tap are the weak ones. On a fresh lithium swap, it is usually the missing converter.

Speed sensor or battery

A failed speed sensor or a controller setting can hold a cart in a limp. The pack voltage will hold up under a careful load check. Match the cart by make…

The key switch feels dead

A dead key circuit is a switch, a fuse, or a pack that is actually open. Measure the pack at the battery posts, not at the dash. Match the cart by make…

The solenoid is welded shut

A welded solenoid can keep the traction circuit closed. The cart may creep, or a contactor may buzz hot. Match the cart by make, model, year, and voltage…

A corroded ground

The main negative is half the circuit. Corrosion there makes a good pack look dead and makes a charger misread. Match the cart by make, model, year, and…

A loose lug that arcs

An arcing lug pits the post and melts the lead. The cart cuts out over cart-path bridges and speed bumps. Match the cart by make, model, year, and voltage…

One battery reads about four volts

A 6-volt battery at about four volts, or an 8-volt battery that low, is finished. The rest of the string has been abused by it. Match the cart by make…

The cart runs, then dies

A pack that runs then quits is either sagging under heat, hitting a BMS limit, or losing a loose connection as it warms. Match the cart by make, model…

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